“An ice-cream can take you straight back to this memory. “There have been some crazy ideas, learning experiences, anxiety, failures, successes, but it’s based on simple logic: what’s the smell of your childhood and what comprises this aroma?” she said. Iborra never intended to join the family business but little by little it drew her in. In Spain, both horchata and saying che (hey) are peculiar to Valencia and Alicante. The cafe got its name – meaning “the Che Guy” – because when it first opened he used to shout to passersby: “ Pruébalo che! ” (Hey, give it a go!). Iborra’s great-great-grandfather left Alicante for Barcelona with the intention of taking a ship to America, but the horchata he brought with him from home caught on and he stayed. Mamá Heladera is next door to El Tío Che, reputed to make the city’s best horchata – a cold drink made from tiger nuts – and run by her family since 1912. It’s called Love in March and has a smoky flavour. Everyone has special ice cream memories One of the main reasons for. She’s still struggling to perfect a request for an ice-cream that tastes of sausages cooking on the barbecue. It is often associated with special occasions, moments of pleasure with family and friends. It wasn’t bad, because the onion has a sweetness, but it wasn’t something we could sell.” “One of the strangest ones we’ve made was tomato and onion, like a sofrito. “Someone wanted an ice-cream that tasted of fuet but that doesn’t work. “There are limits, you can’t make ice-cream out of just anything,” she said. Photograph: Sarah Davisonįor many people the smell of plasticine is intimately associated with childhood and Iborra has devised an ice-cream made with coconut and bitter almonds that recaptures the scent but fortunately not the taste. Irene Iborra, the founder of Mamá Heladera, is the fifth generation in a family of ice-cream makers. It was when Iborra, the fifth generation in a family of ice-cream makers, was backpacking in Asia that she became aware of how closely our idea of where we come from is associated with the tastes and smells of childhood. For a moment, Barcelona became the wooded outskirts of Montreal. On the palate, the first taste was pine, Canada’s definitive aroma, then just a hint of maple syrup, finishing with the unmistakable if unnameable taste of snow. Spread ice cream mixture over crumbs in pan. In large bowl, combine both softened ice creams and remaining 1/3 cup malted milk powder until well blended. Sprinkle 1/2 of the crumbled cookie mixture over hot fudge press lightly. The sorbet she produced captured it perfectly. In medium bowl, break apart large cookie until crumbly. As it hits the snow it solidifies to form a sort of maple toffee. “The obvious thing was to ask, so I created a Google doc and asked around 100 local people for the tastes and smells that reminded them of their childhood.”Īt the Guardian’s request, she agreed to attempt to evoke the aromas of maple syrup, snow and pine needles that accompany the early spring Québécois ritual of sugaring off, when children are taken to the maple woods and given a small metal tray packed with snow to collect the season’s first crop of syrup.
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